They are usually a minimum of 14 weeks old. They will have had their full course of vaccinations at 9 and 12 weeks and been given vet approval to be rehomed.

1.Your kitten has had his/her pedigree registered with the GCCF and you will be given confirmation of this 2. A 4 generation pedigree certificate - showing the cats that make up your kitten's ancestry 3. The micro chip number document 4. Vaccination certificate 5. Copy of the contract between the owner and breeder 6. A cover note from PetPlan with details of the 4 weeks of cover

Like most breeders I do not sell my kittens to go to homes where they are free roaming. There are many reasons for this - they can be involved in road accidents, stolen, get lost, fights, be a nuisance to neighbours etc. There are so many different safety options to choose from and a quick search on the Internet will come up with various ideas - ranging from being indoor cats, having them on a harness, enclosing your garden or creating a catio. There are some truly fantastic ideas for catios and it is well worth looking at some of the amazing designs people have created for their cats. I am always willing to discuss the pro's and con's of each solution.

You can imagine what a big step it is to take a kitten home as he/she will feel very unsure about the new surroundings, an unknown house, the people in it and of course not having the security of their Mum and possibly litter mates. It is better not to rush things and allow the kitten to hide for a while, if that's what they want to do, but make sure the room they are in is hazard free, there is a litter tray, food and water visible to them. Younger children and other animals should be kept apart until they are ready to be introduced. I usually let the kitten meet any resident cat in a room where the kitten can run to a safe space and seek refuge, rather than be introduced while in the carrier. The chances are the cats will both hiss at each other, as the new kitten will be seen as an intruder until the scents are mixed. This usually only takes a few days and you may notices there is a lot of rubbing against corners and furniture to mark the scents. Unless the kitten is happy with it, discourage young children from picking up them up and hugging them too tightly. Kittens need to get used to these little people who run about a lot and make a lot of noise and can't wait to be their best friend! Introducing a dog can be a bit different as a cat is usually very capable of showing the dog who is in charge, even at a young age.

Before they are ready to be rehomed, the kittens will have been suckled by their mum, been introduced to bland commercial wet and dry kitten food, experienced steamed white fish and chicken breast, been moved on to second stage commercial kitten food and finally experienced and tasted some of the adult cat's food. I can advise what their current favourites are, but I wouldn't buy anything until nearer the time they will be joining you, as I find their tastes quickly change as they grow up and you don't want to be left with lots of food, they refuse to eat! They only need water to drink as milk can give them an upset tummy.

You will need a carrier to collect the kitten and for vet visits. The design is up to you, but I prefer the top loading ones. Make sure you get one big enough as he/she will soon grow into a large cat. You will need a litter tray and litter. Again this is a personal choice and litter trays can be a simple open or hooded one or you can investigate some of the new self cleaning models? The general rule is there should be one per cat. Litter wise - I use a flushable corn based one when they are kittens and an ultra clumping fine one as adults. Both I buy from Zooplus online. Of course they will require bowls to eat from and shallow ones are best, made from china or stainless steel for easy cleaning, but there is nothing to stop you from using a favourite plate or saucer. Bedding. I think as new owners, we all like to buy some of the lovely, soft, fluffy, ones. Some cat like them and others find their own special place to sleep, which is often your bed or another warm spot in the house. There are lots of interesting cat climbers for sale with sisal to scratch their claws on and various sleeping levels. They are all good, but keep an eye on young kittens leaping off some of the taller ones and making a heavy landing on the floor. Toys. Lots to choose between and balls and dangly toys or cardboard boxes are always simple and cheap fun. Some of the battery operated ones are pretty good too, along with laser pointer pens (make sure you never point at their eyes though)

Kittens are strictly sold as pets or perhaps to show and not as a breeding cat and their registration document will clearly indicate they are on the non-active register. This means that should any kittens result from a mating, they will not be able to be registered with the governing cat fancy as a pedigree cat. Kittens are not neutered before they leave and a date for doing this should be discussed with your vet and the common time to do this is about 6 months old. Care should be taken if you rehome a male and female kitten to ensure a mating does not take place before being neutered.

If you are not registered with a vet, it is a good idea to do so before getting the kitten. My kittens will have had a full course of vaccinations including leukaemia, before leaving. This lasts for 12 months, before a booster is required. Kittens and cats need treating for worms and fleas regularly, but it is better to be guided by your vet on the best one to use. Many are spot on so easy to administer. In compliance with the cat fancy rules, the kitten has been microchipped. NFC's are a pretty healthy, While some disorders like HCM are seen from time to time, the only disease the cat fancy insist a NFC must be tested for is GSD4, and all my cats are free from this in their lines.

My kittens come with 4 weeks of free insurance with PetPlan. After that, it is up to you to decide to continue with them, choose another insurer or pay any vet bills as they occur. I would recommend insuring a kitten for all of their lives.

Coat quality can vary quite a lot in NFC's. I have had some whose coats had a silkier texture and hardly ever need grooming, while others have an abundance of cotton wool like textured coats that are inclined to easily knot up. Some lose their coat in the summer while others retain a full coat all year around. Either way, they will all need grooming at some stage and there are lots of combs and brushes on the market to choose from. Their nails will need trimming from time to time, particularly if they are indoor cats and with limited access to scratching surfaces. If you aren't confident doing this, you can book an appointment with the vet nurse and you can watch how they do it.

There is ton loads of useful information about NFC's on the internet so I will not attempt to add too much to it. They come in a variety of colours and coat patterns including amber ( the X gene). The males are bigger than the females, although they are a smaller cat than a Maine Coon and generally larger than a Siberian. On average they live to 14/15 years old and I have had 2 that were a tad under 17 when then passed and have several oldies now. They are very majestic and to see a NFC in the snow, - fully coated with long flowing tail held high, is a wonderful sight. They are good company and like to be part of a family and follow you about or sit on the bed while a child lovingly reads a story to them. They like sitting in or on things. Often a pile of newly laundered washing or a grocery bag or box which is really far too small for them. Some of them are chatty, but on the whole they are pretty quiet, unless it is to remind you it is dinner time and you are late. They often walk well on a harness if introduced when young, and many a person has been surprised to see them sniffing about on a country walk. They like to climb, so don't be surprised if you find them on a top shelf, wardrobe or walking along the stair bannisters. My cats and kittens have been spirited and fearless and their world is a place to be explored. That said, they have absolutely no fear of cars and traffic which is another reason they shouldn't be allowed to free roam. The only draw back is they are addictive and if you get one, you will probably find yourself with another, then another...... If you like the sound of all of this, then I would say they are the cat for you. XX

They are a beautiful breed of large cat with their roots and ancestry coming from Scandinavia and they are mentioned in some Nordic mythology. They are a pure breed and not mixed with any other and all their pedigrees must be traceable to the foundation cats. In olden Scandinavian days it was said that a groom would present his bride with a NFC kitten on their wedding day. As most were farmers living in rural homesteads, a good mouser would be a great asset. The instinct to hunt is still very strong in todays cats and you will find them very playful even in older age, and the odd mouse, proudly presented to you. They like company and I rarely let a kitten go as a single pet. It doesn't really matter if it is a rescue cat or a dog, so long as it is someone to play with. While some like to sit on your knee, many will just lie by your side and to be honest, there isn't always enough room on a lap to fit an entire NFC. My cats and kittens have always liked to be outside and will often sit out in the rain or snow surveying what is going on in next doors garden or down the street. Our garden is small, but secure and there are plenty of ledges, shrubs and places of interest to chase about in or comfy, enclosed, dry spaces to have a snooze. I have a microchip cat flap with a curfew facility, so they can come and go in the daytime, but have to stay inside at night.