
Frequently asked questions
Like most breeders I do not sell my kittens to go to homes where they are free roaming. There are many reasons for this - they can be involved in road accidents, stolen, get lost, fights, be a nuisance to neighbours etc.
There are so many different safety options to choose from and a quick search on the Internet will come up with various ideas - ranging from being indoor cats, having them on a harness, enclosing your garden or creating a catio. There are some truly fantastic ideas for catios and it is well worth looking at some of the amazing designs people have created for their cats.
I am always willing to discuss the pro's and con's of each solution.
You will need a carrier to collect the kitten and for vet visits. The design is up to you, but I prefer the top loading ones. Make sure you get one big enough as he/she will soon grow into a large cat.
You will need a litter tray and litter. Again this is a personal choice and litter trays can be a simple open or hooded one or you can investigate some of the new self cleaning models? The general rule is there should be one per cat.
Litter wise - I use a flushable corn based one when they are kittens and an ultra clumping fine one as adults. Both I buy from Zooplus online.
Of course they will require bowls to eat from and shallow ones are best, made from china or stainless steel for easy cleaning, but there is nothing to stop you from using a favourite plate or saucer.
Bedding. I think as new owners, we all like to buy some of the lovely, soft, fluffy, ones. Some cat like them and others find their own special place to sleep, which is often your bed or another warm spot in the house.
There are lots of interesting cat climbers for sale with sisal to scratch their claws on and various sleeping levels. They are all good, but keep an eye on young kittens leaping off some of the taller ones and making a heavy landing on the floor.
Toys. Lots to choose between and balls and dangly toys or cardboard boxes are always simple and cheap fun. Some of the battery operated ones are pretty good too, along with laser pointer pens (make sure you never point at their eyes though)
Before they are ready to be rehomed, the kittens will have been suckled by their mum, been introduced to bland commercial wet and dry kitten food, experienced steamed white fish and chicken breast, been moved on to second stage commercial kitten food and finally experienced and tasted some of the adult cat's food.
I can advise what their current favourites are, but I wouldn't buy anything until nearer the time they will be joining you, as I find their tastes quickly change as they grow up and you don't want to be left with lots of food, they refuse to eat!
They only need water to drink as milk can give them an upset tummy.
You can imagine what a big step it is to take a kitten home as he/she will feel very unsure about the new surroundings, an unknown house, the people in it and of course not having the security of their Mum and possibly litter mates.
It is better not to rush things and allow the kitten to hide for a while, if that's what they want to do, but make sure the room they are in is hazard free, there is a litter tray, food and water visible to them.
Younger children and other animals should be kept apart until they are ready to be introduced. I usually let the kitten meet any resident cat in a room where the kitten can run to a safe space and seek refuge, rather than be introduced while in the carrier. The chances are the cats will both hiss at each other, as the new kitten will be seen as an intruder until the scents are mixed. This usually only takes a few days and you may notices there is a lot of rubbing against corners and furniture to mark the scents.
Unless the kitten is happy with it, discourage young children from picking up them up and hugging them too tightly. Kittens need to get used to these little people who run about a lot and make a lot of noise and can't wait to be their best friend!
Introducing a dog can be a bit different as a cat is usually very capable of showing the dog who is in charge, even at a young age.
1.Your kitten has had his/her pedigree registered with the GCCF and you will be given confirmation of this
2. A 4 generation pedigree certificate - showing the cats that make up your kitten's ancestry
3. The micro chip number document
4. Vaccination certificate
5. Copy of the contract between the owner and breeder
6. A cover note from PetPlan with details of the 4 weeks of cover